Niseko: Many Mountains, Much Bliss

After two days at Rusutsu, I have skied for five days at Niseko, which is about 30 minutes away.  It is a much, much larger place, not just with four distinct ski areas, but also going much further up.  It took four lifts to get to the top, and we could only do that on our third day and beyond due to winds.  My sister and I have explored all four areas now.  As this amazing ski vacation ends today with my flying back home while they go onto other ski areas in Japan, I wanted to engage in some comparative analysis.

Some of the differences I noted about Rusutsu were apparently more specific to that place and not so much applicable to the rest of Japanese skiing (my n is 2 so .... yeah). 

• 

  Me in the deep stuff
  

  The fresh snow was great at Rusutsu, but the freshies at Niseko was just so fluffy and soft.  Absolutely the best snow I have skied through/under, and it is not close.  I often read long ago about champagne powder in the Rockies, but never really experienced it until now.  And now I get why it is so addictive.
  
• Far more
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  of Rusutsu had buildings covering the top and bottom of the chair lifts, whereas Niseko was more of a mix.  Some had top, some had bottom, some had neither, and some had both. 
• Talkative chair lift attendees?  Mostly, more recorded stuff playing at Niseko.
• Bubbles on chair lifts?  Some, but not most.  Indeed, Niseko had a couple of chairlifts I had never seen before
• leather, heated seats on one six-pack, and that lift went incredibly slowly the one time I had my pole in the wrong place when the automatic bubble/safety bar came down, trapping the pole against my thighs and my sister's.  Not a comfy ride despite the leather seats. 
  
• a four person gondola with two in front facing front, two in back facing back

  

  the funky four person gondola
  

• pizza box lifts--one person chair lifts with no seat back and no bar in front.  One holds onto the pole that connects the chair to the rest of the lift.  I did not do that lift, but would have on the last day if I had any energy left.
  
• More sharing on lifts--Niseko encouraged strangers to sit on the same chair and did pack some of the gondolas (those at the western resort in particular).
• Many, many Aussies.  I would guess that were as many Aussies as Japanese. 
  

• 
  Both places had night skiing, which we didn't do at all--just too tired. But pretty to look at. 
  

 

 

 

Yes, we played follow the leader,
and I was mostly the leader lemming

Each of the four mountains had its own vibe/tendencies.  Going from left to right, the one on the far left had mostly super wide intermediate trails that had some good steeps and had nice, relatively flat glades, so we played a lot in the trees and in the deeper snow (not that deep).  It was mostly uncrowded as it was harder to reach with some of the upper lifts closed.  The second mountain was narrower, had more winding, narrower trails.  The main resort has a bunch of lifts (it takes four to get to the very top), a lot of different terrain from super easy for the ski schools to fun blue cruisers to some steep narrow stuff.  Lots of choices, and I enjoyed most a gully that had shrubbery and widely spaced trees on either side to play in, much like Grizzly Gulch at Lake Louise but not as big in the middle, not as steep on the sides, and not as bumpy. The mountain on the right had some very steep intermediates and not as much tree stuff.

To be clear, we didn't climb the extra
50-100 yards to get to the tippy top

We finally got to the top yesterday after the winds died down.  We used that opportunity to get over to the next mountain rather than walking/skating.  I did get a second chance at it, but the visibility declined.  Still, it had a ton of snow, which made getting up and getting my ski pole after a fall a bit challenging.  Getting down from the required going down a steep, shrubbed slope--it was fun, moderately difficult, and thrilling... oh and tiring.  

 

 

Susan near the peak in the super deep
and steep.  She has improved so much
so quickly!

 

And then on our last day, my sister joined me in doing this--with a heap of fresh snow.  I mixed it up with some really wide turns and some pretty straight down the mountain ones.  Of course, my inappropriately narrow carving skis didn't help, but I didn't suck at it, and it was a blast.  My sister, who very recently was much more tentative, went down pretty quickly and under control.  Most impressive.

 

 

I am amazed that my legs haven't been very sore, although my knees were progressively sorer towards the end of the trip.  I should be ok for the next trip... which is just two days after I get home.  

One of at least 3 food truck areas

We are staying at a hotel just across the street from the food trucks and a five minute walk to one set of lifts.  The food has been pretty terrific, and everyone we have met has been quite friendly.  Our last night was a phenomenal meal where we had about eight dishes, each one on a different beautiful plate.

My skiing is probably the best it has ever been, as I have had two lessons this week, one good and helpful and one less so, and lots of practice on all kinds of terrain.  I am not as smooth and fluid as others, but I have been better at getting into a good rhythm and skiing through the piles of snow.  We had a bunch of fresh snow to begin our time here at Niseko and on our last day.  In between, there were still plenty of stashes in the trees, so that is where we would visit.  

It has been the best ski trip of my life--the longest, with the most varied terrain, and with great company.  Only Whistler and maybe Copper compare.  Very glad to be my sister's ski buddy on this--we like the same kind of terrain now (she is not as confident on narrow traverses so no Fernie for her).  The only thing we need know is a distinct helmet cover for me so that she can find me in my otherwise blah (gray jacket, dark green pants) outfit. Her pink helmet and pants make her easy to find.

Much thanks to Susan, her boyfriend Bruce, and his two great kids.  We crossed paths with those three expert skiers from time to time on the slopes and enjoyed many great meals off.  I was very glad to be along for the ride.

I look forward to taking my skiing and comparative analysis skills to the Austrian Alps later this winter, but I will be going solo.  Most of my skiing has been solitary since my daughter left the house, but now I remember what fun it is to ski with a pal.  So, now I need to conspire to get my sister to join me next winter.